For Franck Baranger, the trigger came a few years ago, when he saw the mountain of delivery packaging piled up in the cellar of his Parisian restaurant Le Pantruche. “The amount of boxes we folded each week seemed crazy to me. “ From then on, the restaurateur, now at the head of four establishments in the rue des Martyrs district, set out to find suppliers who deliver in returnable cases and who can supply them at a single point of contact.
At the same time, the restaurateur has also reviewed his relationship with meat. In his early days, pigeon was one of his signature dishes. “We had thirty pigeon carcasses permanently in the kitchen, I ended up saturating. ” Without completely eliminating it, the chef decided to serve the meat according to the arrivals of the producers. “If a supplier offers me a super train of five prime ribs, I’ll afford to take them. But I am not going to put them systematically on the map. ” And, in two of its four restaurants, there is now always a vegetarian option.
Wednesday, October 20, Franck Baranger takes part, alongside 70 other restaurateurs, in a “Zero carbo day” (for “zero carbon”) organized by the gastronomic guide Le Fooding. A day during which restaurateurs will try to be as exemplary as possible: they will highlight their daily efforts, while going further that day, by offering a totally vegetal menu, without cooking in favor of marinades. , or by opting for slow cooking, stewing for example. “Our goal remains to please the customer by being as invisible as possible in nature, sums up Franck Baranger. But it is not easy because we still do a job where we take things from the earth. “
Mosaic of establishments
To prepare for this day, Le Fooding worked with the company Ekodev, which has set up a calculator to assess the carbon footprint of everything that goes into the development of the menu. The guide has also defined a “zero carbon charter” which sets out several main principles (choice of ingredients, management of leftovers, cooking, water savings, etc.). “Our idea is not to put anyone on the wrong foot, specifies Anouk Fauveau Le Fers, event manager for Le Fooding. This charter serves to guide, to imagine a menu with the lowest possible impact according to the capacities of each establishment. “
Like Franck Baranger, more and more restaurateurs are keen to offer more responsible catering, in response to the accumulation of studies showing that the food chain accounts for a third of greenhouse gas emissions. . And beyond the big names in gastronomy who are committed to sustainable food, such as Olivier Roellinger or Thierry Marx, ecological questions run through a mosaic of establishments of all categories. Approaches that the young Ecotable company encourages, by supporting and auditing restaurants, as well as through an online platform.
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These restaurants which are making their ecological transition: “We had thirty pigeon carcasses permanently, I ended up saturating”